Fabric task
Using you designer/design house as a reference point, research and identify the fabrics used in their current collections. Choose one garment to research further.
Silk blend multi layer jacket
Composition: Silk: 85% Nylon: 10% Spandex: 5%
Silk: Natural
A natural, fine, lustrous fiber obtained from the cocoon of the silkworms larva through a process called sericulture.
There are almost 70 species of silk moths. The most famous is the Bombyx mori.
How it is made?
Silkworms are first fed handpicked and chopped mulberry leaves. They are fed until the silkworms reach their desired weight. This is about 10,000 times more than when they hatched.
They are ready to build and enter their cocoon stage once they are fed and saved enough energy. Their silk glands form a gel like substance. They wrap this around themselves. This will harden once it comes into contact with air.
The slightest noise or strong smell may interrupt the worms from their spinning. It can also affect the quality of cocoon they will produce.
The silkworm spends almost three to four days spinning. They then spend another eight to nine days before they are ready to be unwound. Other breeders steam or bake the cocoons to kill the chrysalis.
Chrysalises are the worms inside the cocoon. Steaming or baking them will prevent them from breaking out. This would keep the precious cocoons intact.
The cocoons are dipped into hot water to loosen the tightly woven filaments. These filaments can extend to as long as 600 to 900 meters. They are very thin and fine.
These filaments are then woven and twisted into different kinds of silk threads. There are different known types of woven silk fabrics. Each type would depend on the number of filaments used for the silk thread. The width of each filament, the way each filament is looped and twisted into the silk thread are also considere.
Uses of Silk Fabric:
Apparel/Garments - The soft, luster and supple feel of silk has made it widely used as apparels. The absorbent quality is an added advantage in silk cloth, which keeps the body comfortable in all types of weather. All types of garments like sarees, shirts, skirts, blouses, suits, gown, etc. are made of silk. Silk made garments are of formal use.
Home Furnishing - Silk fabric is used in different products of home furnishing, which gives the room a luxurious look like sheets, pillowcases, and throws. Since silk is not a good resistant to abrasion, it should be taken extra care.
Medical Textiles - A medicated silk fabrics has been developed which keeps the body part un-affected from cuts, burns, and bedsores. These medicated silk textiles are also antibacterial.
Characteristics of Silk Fabric:
Silk is very smooth and luxurious.
Wild silks are an exception. They are dull with coarse hand and texture.
It is comfortable and has a very good absorbent quality.
It is the strongest natural fabric.
It is not a good resistant to abrasion.
Impurities in the air and direct sunlight fades the color of a silk fabric.
Perspiration and sunlight weakens the silk fabrics.
Cloth made of silk water-spots easily. Hence it is recommended that silk garments should be dry-cleaned.
Silk fabric do not resist wrinkle.
Silk fabric is also used in computerized clothing to conduct electricity.
Silk garments can be worn for all seasons as its high absorbency allows comfort in the warmth and keeps warm air close to the skin when it’s cold.
Spandex: Manmade
Spandex fabric is widely used as fashion fabric because of its shape retention quality. It can stretch up to 600 times and again bounce back to its original structure. This fabric has superior strength and is highly durable. It is resistant to dry heat and oil. It is the fabric of comfort and flexibility without putting weight on the body of the wearer.
Spandex blends well with other fabrics because of its resiliency and elastic recovery quality. It enhances the features of other fabric with which it is blended. Many fabrics only use 3% to 30% of spandex content, depending on the type of the garment. Even the smallest content of spandex makes a marked difference to the fabric. After the blending, spandex creates a less confined feel and becomes more stronger and versatile piece of clothing. The fabric becomes more stable and durable adding a higher level of comfort and better resistance to perspiration and body oils.
The common blends with spandex are wool, silk and rayon. It creates a lighter and more flexible fabric. The dresses made out of this blend can be worn all day but still can be comfortable. Blended spandex fabrics feel better, fit better and make one look better.
How is it made?
It is made up of a long chain polymer called polyurethane, which is produced by reacting a polyester with a diisocyanate. The polymer is converted into a fiber using a dry spinning technique.
Spandex is a synthetic polymer. Chemically, it is made up of a long-chain polyglycol combined with a short diisocyanate, and contains at least 85% polyurethane. It is an elastomer, which means it can be stretched to a certain degree and it recoils when released. These fibers are superior to rubber because they are stronger, lighter, and more versatile. In fact, spandex fibers can be stretched to almost 500% of their length.
Uses of Spandex Fabric:
Spandex fabric blended with wool, silk or rayon becomes lighter and more flexible, which is widely used as suits, blouses, jackets and stacks.
The highly shape retention quality of spandex is used in making undergarments and support hose.
Characteristics of Spandex Fabric:
It is elastic. It retains back to original shape.
It is lightweight and strong.
It is comfort and flexible.
It is resistant to abrasion.
It is resistant to dry heat.
It is resistant to deterioration by body oils, perspiration, and detergents.
It readily accepts dye.
Nylon: Manmade
Nylon was the first of the synthetic fibers made by man, and is considered one of the most important chemical discoveries because of its toughness, strength, elasticity, and resistance to oil and grease.
How is it made?
Nylon is made by forcing molten nylon through very small holes in a device called a spinneret. The streams of nylon harden into filament once they come in contact with air. They are then wound onto bobbins. These fibers are drawn (stretched) after they cool.
Drawing involves unwinding the yarn or filaments and then winding it around another spool. Drawing makes the molecules in each filament fall into parallel lines. This gives the nylon fiber strength and elasticity.
After the whole drawing process, the yarn may be twisted a few turns per yard or metres as it is wound onto spools. Further treatment to it can give it a different texture or bulk.
Uses of Nylon Fabric:
Nylon is widely used in women's hosiery and lingerie due to its high elongation and excellent elastic recovery quality. It is also used as sportswear, jackets, pants, skirts, raincoats, ski and snow apparel, windbreakers and children-wear.
Nylon is used in carpeting materials and upholstery fabrics because it is easy to clean and does not require special protection against moths and carpet beetles. Rugs, curtains, draperies and bedspreads are made from this fabric.
Nylon fabric is also used as luggage, back packets, life vests, umbrellas, sleeping bags and tents.
As industrial product, nylon fabric is used as seat belts, tire cords, ballistic cloth and towropes because of its strength and good elasticity.
Characteristics of Nylon Fabric:
It is lightweight and very strong.
It is stretchable.
It drapes well.
It is static.
It is durable.
It is smooth.
It dries quickly.
It is easy to clean, as dirt does not cling.
It is resistant to abrasion and chemicals.
It does not absorb moisture well, hence it can be hot and clammy in the heat.
